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We were intrigued in mid-2009 when research documented that celiac disease, an immune system reaction to gluten, has increased four-fold in the past half-century. We covered the research in an earlier blog, but the question still left on the table was, “Why has celiac disease increased so hugely?”
We set out to find the answers, by combing through scientific research, and came across some interesting information that may fill in the holes – and may give hope to the estimated 1-3% of people who cannot digest gluten properly.
A little background first, before we share our research trove with you. Research shows that celiac disease and gluten sensitivity are distinct problems, and in fact there may be two main types of Celiac Disease. Gluten is a protein that’s found in wheat, barley, rye and triticale (a wheat / rye hybrid). It’s only found in these four grains – so people who have celiac disease or are otherwise gluten-intolerant still have plenty of great choices of whole grains to enjoy. Gluten-free does not mean whole grain-free!
Our romp through the research turned up evidence that today’s wheat foods are, most likely, higher in gluten, which may account for the increased problems experienced by a small fraction of the population. The good news, though, is that we also found research that suggests ways to lower the gluten levels in wheat-based foods. We’ll organize this blog according to our good news findings. (Note: some of these ideas may also apply to barley and rye, but the research we found centers on wheat.)
Consider Ancient Grains
Different types of wheat have different numbers of chromosomes, and some studies show that the older wheats, with fewer chromosomes, tend to have lower levels of gliadins, the type of gluten proteins that seem to cause most sensitivities.
Einkorn, the oldest known type of wheat in our current food supply, has just 14 chromosomes, and is called a diploid wheat. Durum wheat (the kind most often used for pasta) and emmer are tetraploid wheats, with 28 chromosomes. Common wheat (used for most everything) and spelt have 42 chromosomes and are known as hexaploid wheats. Research shows that different tetraploid and hexaploid wheat varieties differ widely in gliadin levels, and it’s possible to select “individual genotypes with less Celiac Disease-immunogenic potential.”
Even if you’re not gluten-sensitive, you may want to consider some of the ancient grains. Research shows that Kamut has higher levels of antioxidants than some modern wheats, and that healthy plant sterols are higher in tetraploid wheats than in hexaploid wheats.
Organic May Trump Conventional Growing
We all understand that the foods we eat can make a big difference in the composition and health of our bodies. The old saying “You are what you eat” applies to plants, too.
We uncovered one intriguing study that found that varying levels of sulfur and nitrogen fertilizer can change the proteins in wheat. Different proteins, different sensitivities. Is there, perhaps, a connection between the widespread introduction of chemical fertilizers after World War II, and the four-fold increase in Celiac Disease during the same period?
The jury is still out. We’d like to see research that takes the next step, and compares the proteins in conventionally-farmed grains with organic grains.
Try the Old Ways of Making Bread
Once you’ve grown and harvested the wheat, how you make your bread may affect its gluten levels, too. Throughout most of mankind’s history, bread was made using a sourdough process based on lacto-fermentation. The process was slow, and results were uneven, so when modern yeast became available, sourdough breads became less common.
Now research shows us that lacto-fermentation of wheat has the potential to drastically reduce gluten levels. We found three studies along these lines. Our favorite study showed that sourdough bread produced with a particular strain of lacto-bacilli had gluten levels of 12 parts per million – where anything under 20 ppm is considered gluten-free. Bread made with the same wheat but without lacto-fermentation had gluten levels of 75,000 ppm.
Another cool thing about this study was that the Italian researchers lacto-fermented the flour, then dried it and used it in a conventional quick-baking process, one that could be compatible with modern bakeries. We love it when someone discovers ways to incorporate the best of the old ways into today’s realities – that’s what health through heritage is all about!
Share Your Thoughts and Your Research
I’m not a researcher – just a fascinated auto-didact – so some details of the studies cited here may have escaped me. I present the information above as speculation, and invite those doing actual research in this area to contact us with their latest findings. We’re excited by the range of research being conducted, and its potential for removing any barriers that stand in the way of all people being able to enjoy all whole grains! (Cynthia)
Comments
Thanks for your thoughts -- and for the craft with which you make your bread, Doug. Poor wheat, being blamed so often for what's done to it. Wheat is amazing and I'm glad we have people like you bringing out the best in wheat.
You make a good point, Tim. Many cases of what people assume are "gluten intolerance" could be due to sensitivities to pesticides and herbicides, including glyphosphates and a number of other factors totally unrelated to gluten. We always advise getting medical advice -- and it can also be interesting to try organic grains, and different varieties of grains (such as spelt, Kamut® khorasan, farro or einkorn for common wheat).
Glad you found a way to address your problems, Judy. Durum wheat is different from common wheat anyway (it's genetically simpler) -- so you've changed two factors. You could do an experiment and see how your body reacts to a) conventional durum wheat or b) organic common wheat if you're curious as to whether it's the pesticides/herbicides or the genetic makeup -- or both!
We're big believers in sticking with the nutrients that occur naturally in food. Why take out all those good nutrients -- and then stick just a few back in through enrichment/fortification? BTW, in the US it's not legal to enrich whole wheat flour. So just eat those good whole grains, as nature intended.
We're not aware of any WHOLE GRAIN flour that has malted barley added or that is bleached, so one good solution would be to simply avoid the white flour and buy whole grains. The ingredient list should say just one thing: whole wheat flour.
See this book on Wheat Breeding and many other sources -- Spelt is indeed hexaploid, not tetraploid. We couldn't find any expert source that referred to spelt as tetraploid, but if you have one, feel free to share it.
We're not aware of any commercial source for this blend of strains, but will post this to see if anyone else has input. Dr. Gobbetti's group is working under very carefully controlled conditions and I would imagine that it might be difficult to get the same results in a home kitchen.
Kate Scarlata, RD just posted info on her blog as to where to get this starter that contains the Lacto-Bacilli strains. It's under the blog post about sourdough bread and recent research done on the FODMAP content of sourdough bread. Also, Cultures of Health has many different types of sourdough starters. And, great tutorials with video's. http://www.culturesforhealth.com/starter-cultures/sourdough-starter.html
A note of caution. All starter will contain lacto-bacilli strains. Whether they are the SAME strains used in the Italian research may be difficult or impossible to determine.
First of all, there are no "local yeasts/bacilli" in your sourdough starter which have a measurable impact. The yeasts and bacteria come from the flour you add to your starter in order to feed it. Secondly as I described in my post here in the comments, if your sourdough WOULD reduce gluten you better think about how you replace the gluten if you don't want a bread like a brick. Gluten makes bread soft. You NEED gluten in your bread or you need to replace it with something else which has the same function. It is not like gluten has no function in bread. Compare it with sugar in a cake. If you would remove or greatly reduce sugar in a cake you would have to replace it with something else. Cheers Peter
I believe the basic mechanism is that the bacteria are digesting/breaking down the gluten, so that your body doesn't have to work so hard to break it down. The Italians in fact call this "pre-digested flour" which isn't very appetizing ... probably loses something in translation!
Hi Tiff,
Some people report tolerating certain types of wheat (such as einkorn) better than others, so it would not be outside of the realm of possibility. However, those with diagnosed wheat allergies are often instructed to avoid all wheat products. I highly recommend that you work with your medical team (such as your physician and dietitian) so that you can identify any potential allergies, and find foods that work best for you and your body. It is also worth noting that bulgur and freekeh are often (though not always) made from durum wheat.
I refer to this section in your article: "Now research shows us that lacto-fermentation of wheat has the potential to drastically reduce gluten levels. We found three studies along these lines. Our favorite study showed that sourdough bread produced with a particular strain of lacto-bacilli had gluten levels of 12 parts per million – where anything under 20 ppm is considered gluten-free. Bread made with the same wheat but without lacto-fermentation had gluten levels of 75,000 ppm."
A bit about my background. I am an Artisan baker and studied Food Chemistry. From my baker's background, there are only two ways of making bread: You create a gluten structure which locks the gasses produced during fermentation and makes the bread soft and fluffy or you replace this gluten structure with something (i.e. emulgators) which take over this task. Without any of these methods your bread will be a brick. Now let's assume your statement would be correct. If sourdough culture would reduce gluten that much in a bread, every sourdough bread would be dense and would have no soft crumb. There are many articles including imagery out in the WWW which proves otherwise. I myself bake a Pane Maggiore with sourdough which is light, airy and has a big open crumb.
I am familiar with the study you quoted. In that study, lactic bacteria were EXTRACTED FROM SOURDOUGH. They then used HYDROLIZED wheat which has undergone FUNGAL PROTEASE. To compare this with a normal situation in any bakery or home baking is in my eyes somewhat naive. As I said, even if we assume that this can be applied to the normal baking process you would still have to replace the removed gluten with something to achieve a light soft crumb as I described above. I see many quotations of this study out there and all of them use it as prove that your home baked or artisan bakery sourdough is gluten reduced. This is totally misleading and - sorry - typical for all the internet experts out there. Sourdough is still healthier than most other breads. But it ain't gluten reduced or even gluten free. Cheers Peter
There's a lot we still don't know about the process. The company that is commercializing Dr. Gobbetti's research has a website here that tells a bit more about it. I agree it's likely that the breakdown of the gluten would necessarily affect baking qualities. It will be interesting to see the ingredient list when the products are on the market. (Cynthia)
Hi, I actually read an article a while back outlining just what you mention. The sourdough process breaks down or converts the gluten proteins to such an extent the fluffiness is still relatively intact, but the immune system no longer reacts. For a matter of fact many people complain their sourdough bread is too dense, and not similar to their regular bread at all in terms of texture. This would confirm that gluten is broken down or converted, why else would texture change of all other conditions are equal?
"Gluten is a protein that’s found in wheat, barley, rye and triticale (a wheat / rye hybrid). It’s only found in these four grains[...] you forgot oats in your list. Cheers Peter
Hi Peter. We stick by our position that oats don't contain gluten. They are, however, frequently contaminated by gluten, so we would advise anyone with celiac disease to look for oats that have been tested to be gluten free. A small proportion of people with celiac disease may be sensitive to some proteins in oats. (Cynthia)
All of the studies listed in this blog should be linked to the studies cited. If we missed one, please tell us and we'll hunt it down for you! (Cynthia)
We're glad you've found a way to avoid those symptoms, Jen. If you can drink beer, and eat barley and einkorn wheat, it's clearly not a gluten problem, we agree.
Thanks for weighing in Carolyn. We looked into this on our Myths page and learned that could be a possible factor, but the practice is not as widespread as rumor has it. Take a look. One way to check: see if organic wheat makes any sensitivity go away.
Thank you for caring. I think more than 3 percent are gluten intolerant.... so articles like this give me hope... fermentation is the way to go.... keep up the research please
Hi Doll,
We really really want to emphasize that there is nothing YOU as a consumer can do to get gluten free wheat on the market in the USA. This is a special process using specific lacto-bacilli -- which are mentioned in their research studies, but not in a way you can use them as a recipe to create your own. We wrote this blog simply to talk about something that's coming down the road, perhaps, at some point. Sorry to disappoint you, but if you have a medical reason not to eat wheat, you should continue to NOT eat wheat, whether it's sourdough or not.
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